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Cypress Gardens, America's Tropical Wonderland: How Dick Pope Invented Florida by Lu Vickers
(University Press of Florida, Hardcover, 376 pp., $34.95)

Reviewed by Nick Garnett


           Long before interstate highways carved up Florida into a series of marquee destinations connected by wide, sterile and efficient thoroughfares, long before Disney came and transformed thousands of acres of farm land into a fantasy land, there was a different Florida.  On roads such as Rte. 27, the Orange Blossom Trail (which runs down the center of the state along an ancient sand dune), travelers, most of them sun-starved northerners, drove through miles and miles of fragrant citrus groves.  The road was also, from the 30s through the 70s, a gateway to some of Florida’s major tourist attractions:  Bok Singing Tower, Citrus Tower, the Reptile Institute, Silver Springs, Highland Hammock State Park and the Cypress Knee Museum.   None of these could compare in popularity and national influence, however, to Winter Haven’s Cypress Gardens, the “Technicolor Florida dream,” the subject of Lu Vicker’s lovingly told and lushly illustrated retrospective, Cypress Gardens—America’s Tropical Wonderland:  How Dick Pope Invented Florida.

          Cypress Gardens chronicles the rise and eventual demise of an attraction which began in the 30s as swampland and, by 1963, drew more than a million people a year to tie the Grand Canyon as the country’s number-one tourist attraction.  The Gardens would welcome JFK, the Shah of Iran, King Hussein of Jordan, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Johnny Carson and The Tonight Show, and Elvis. Its grounds served as the setting for several movies and led to a long-term relationship with the competitive-swimmer-turned film star Esther Williams, who had not one, but two, swimming pools built for her—one in the shape of Florida.

           As Vickers points out, none of this would have happened if it weren’t for Dick Pope Sr., a diminutive and determined entrepreneur (dubbed “the Swami of the Swamp”) who, quite literally, helped put Florida on the map.  The son of a Winter Haven real estate developer, Pope, whose motto was, “Think big about everything,” seized on the idea of creating a lush, tropical paradise that would draw northerner in droves.  “We are going to sell 100,000 of them 25 cents worth of Florida,” he said.   But even the hype-spouting Pope vastly underestimated his creation’s drawing power.  The Garden’s extensive tropical plantings and meandering canals, carved out of swampland by WPA workers, opened in 1935, and made it onto the 1937-38 American Automobile Associations travel guide at just about the time Americans began to travel  widely in their cars.  We, like them, are along for the ride.

          Vickers’s narrative sticks close to Pope Sr. and his two sons, who became accomplished speedboaters and water skiers.  Their death-defying antics caught the attention of newsreels which gave the Gardens free publicity in movie houses across the country and caused a burst of interest in the brand-new sport of water skiing.  Dick Pope knew a marketing opportunity when he saw one.  He added lavish, choreographed water shows in which water skiers—many of them attractive women—performed all manner of acrobatic, gravity defying stunts.  Photos of these beauties, gliding along on water skis wearing the latest bathing suit designs, became so popular that, by the 40s, Dick Pope’s models had landed more magazine covers than anyone else in the country.

          Vickers relies on interviews with dozens of friends, former employees and business associates of the Pope family, resulting in an intimate and detailed story of the Gardens through the years. As Dick Pope knew so well, however, the story of Cypress Gardens is one best told in pictures.  The more-than 250 photos which appear in Vickers’s book, many drawn from the Garden’s archives, evoke a time long past—when a tutu-clad girl performing ballet moves on water skis at 35-miles-an-hour and demure, hoop-skirted “southern belles” who posed for pictures with visitors, could pack them in.

          Then came Disney.  Dick Pope welcomed the arrival of Disneyworld, figuring that what was good for Florida tourism would also be good for Cypress Gardens.  At first, his hunch seemed correct.  Attendance at Cypress Gardens surged in the early 70s.  Eventually, though, a combination of recessions, rising gas prices and the expansion of the Disney empire into a self-contained mega-resort would eat away at the Gardens’ attendance and its increasingly aging clientele.  The death of Dick Pope in 1988 seemed to hasten the inevitable—the end for Cypress Gardens, which sputtered along through various changes in marketing strategies, ownership, bankruptcies and closings until its most recent shuttering in 2009. The park has recently been purchased by the owners of Legoland.

          Vickers (who previously wrote a book about another culturally significant Florida tourist attraction, Weeki Wachee) obviously cares deeply about her subject.  It is only near the end of the book, however, that she reveals her longing for another Florida:

          “If only we could undo what has happened to all of Florida, roll history backward like a film.  Cinderella’s Castle would crumble into dust to be reclaimed by blackwater swamp, cypress trees, and alligators; the jerking robots in the Small, Small world would bore the tourists, who would then ooh and ahh again over the sight of a great blue heron stalking fish at the edge of a lake . . . Highway 27 would fill with oranges and grapefruit, and rental cars would be replaced with station wagons filled with screaming children wanting Pop to follow that sign go Cypress Gardens, where they would be awed by bougainvillea, one big banyan tree, a pyramid of water-skiers and a bevy of waving belles."

          It is difficult to read Vickers’s lovely and at times lyrical book and not feel the same.


Nick Garnett enjoys writing about road trips and all things retro, including himself. 


Our review of Lu Vickers' Weeki Watchee CIty of Mermaids is archived here.

 


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The Young Wrecker on the Florida Reef, Or, The Trials and Adventures of Fred Ransom, by Richard Meade Bache
(Ketch & Yawl Press, Paperback, 235 pp., $12.95)
Reviewed by Keith Ferrell


           This handsomely reproduced edition of Bache’s 1866 novel is salutary in a number of ways.

First – and, always, most important – the book is worth reprinting, and not just for reasons of historical context.

The Young Wrecker on the Florida Reef is a lively and well-told story in and of itself: cast as the reminiscences of Fred Ransom from the perspective of old age, the novel can be read either as an adventure story for young adult readers, or as an exceptionally detailed account of the sailing life onboard a wrecker (a ship out for salvage) ca.1839.

Either way – or both! – the book rewards the reader with a solid (even when, occasionally, stolid) narrative pace, descriptions that are both vivid and precise, characters that are well and deftly drawn, and an ongoing sense of the beauty and harshness of Florida, Cuba, and their surrounding waters.

Over the course of the novel Fred Ransom grows both as a sailor and as a young man, traveling onboard the Flying Cloud and encountering and absorbing adventures ranging from the death of a shipmate seized by a shark, to lessons in navigation and fishing (there’s a pretty good lesson in constructing throw-nets here), from how to get along with crewmates to rescuing the crew of a wrecked ship (and salvaging her cargo) to a battle with Indians (sic) and more.

Bache reminds us with nearly every sentence of just how the world of the wreckers worked, including how central salvage was a century and a half ago to communities now long-known for other things.  Take a look, for instance, at this passage from the second chapter, as young Ransom recalls his first encounter with Key West:

The chief business of the town consisted of fitting out and supplying the wreckers, and all the people were devoted to nothing else: if, perhaps, we except a few travelers, who came for health, and sometimes left their homes.  Everything revolved about that business; and everyone was an owner of a wrecker, or a captain of one, or a mate of one, or a sailor on one, or some female relation of these.

Bache’s prose is generally straightforward and without stylistic effect.  His vocabulary is wide (though always accurately deployed) and a reminder of a time when writers, even writing for younger readers, could count on the audience possessing an equally wide vocabulary.

The story is surprisingly unmannered in its telling.  Bache reminds us every few chapters that this is a reminiscence of “an old bachelor,” but otherwise remains focused on re-creating the experiences of his youth, both in narrative and occasional journal entries from Ransom’s time as a wrecker.

Throughout the book we’re rewarded with memorable (if idiosyncratically, by modern standards anyway, punctuated) passages that let us experience the Florida that was:

Sometimes we rowed our boat through a little inlet, so narrow that the oar tips scarcely cleared the foliage on the banks and, with a few strokes, darted into the waters of a placid lake studded with green islets.  We found many Keys like this.  From the outside, they seemed a dense growth of trees extending from shore to shore; but they were really nothing but a rim of land encircling waters which ebbed and flowed through obscure inlets.  These places always had great charm for me.  Coming from the seaward side of a Key, where the breeze drove on the restless, chafing sea, which frets at every barrier, day and night, and never ceases its hollow murmuring or thunderous crash upon the shore, -- we could come with one swift glide into waters unruffled by a ripple; where there was not a sound, save the scream of a wild bird; where the brilliant flamingoes stood in gorgeous troops; and the solitary heron watched moodily beside the bank.

As young Ransom’s adventures at sea draw to a close and he prepares to return to his home and a (far duller) life that is approaching its close as the narrator completes his story, Bache creates a deep tone of wistfulness, of regret that in some ways re-casts all that has preceded the final few pages.  There is no bitterness here, but an unavoidable sense of a long life ashore that was as unlived as Fred Ransom’s months at sea were fully lived.

The Young Wrecker is a still-readable artifact of another literary time, and it’s good to have it available.  A brief introduction by Tom Corcoran is informative and may make readers wish there was more information about the novel’s author.  Bache (1830-1907) was a great-great grandson of Benjamin Franklin; the rest of his family was equally distinguished in the sciences and maritime arts.

A bargain at $12.95, the volume is handsomely produced, well-printed, durably bound.  Which is a good thing – I will probably return to it, and the book will hold up to repeated readings or, even better, to being passed along to younger readers who might for the space of a couple of hundred pages, enjoy being in the company of Fred Ransom, young wrecker.

Keith Ferrell is the author of a dozen books, including the novel Passing Judgment, and more than 1,000 magazine articles and essays; he was Editor of OMNI Magazine from 1990-1996. You can read more from him at his blog.

Editor's note:  You can also read Keith Ferrell's feature about Florida writer John D. MacDonald on our feature page.


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Florida on Film: The Essential Guide to Sunshine State Cinema & Locations by Susan Doll & David Morrow

(University Press of Florida, Paperback, 394 pp., $19.95)

Reviewed by Susan Jo Parsons


          Who could forget when Kathleen Turner turned up the temperature, even by Florida standards, with her femme fatale role in the 1981 film Body Heat?  What about the final shoot-out scene of Scarface? Or the unusual fountain of youth a group of Florida senior citizens discovered in Cocoon?  Did you know that when Where the Boys Are was filmed in 1960, 40,000 college students were already traveling to Fort Lauderdale each spring?  And that before Hollywood (CA) became the home of American filmmakers Jacksonville was a hot spot? You can read about all this and more in Florida on Film: The Essential Guide to Sunshine State Cinema & Locations by Susan Doll and David Morrow.

Florida on Film is a bit of a film buff’s book, a bit of a history book, and a bit of a travel guide.  The comprehensive catalog of films is divided into sections such as “Silent Florida,” “The Golden Age,” and “Florida Noir.”  What about stars you ask? Florida has hosted them all, from the critters in Creature from the Black Lagoon, Flipper and Jaws 3D, to bombshells and hunks such as Betty Grable, Marilyn Monroe, Lauren Bacall, Jennifer Lopez, Burt Reynolds, Tom Cruise, and Elvis.  The list of films made here includes comedies (The Birdcage, Parenthood, Operation Petticoat), dramas (Key Largo, Days of Thunder, and Monster), sequels (Smokey and the Bandit 3, Tarzan Finds a Son) and even a James Bond film.

For each movie featured in the book, Doll and Morrow include a brief plot synopsis, followed by a longer section taking you inside the making of the film.  For 1992’s Brenda Starr, which featured Brooke Shields, they discuss how Shields was eager to “transform her image from the provocative Lolita established in Calvin Klein ads.” They also write that the film was financed by Sheik Abdul Aziz al Ibrahim, a “billionaire businessman” who had a crush on Shields.  They analyze the 1948 film, Mr. Peabody and the Mermaid, starring William Powell and Ann Blyth, focusing on the psychological state of the character, Peabody, who had just turned fifty, and how he begins a romance with a possibly imaginary mermaid, Lenore, who “represents the desire and passion of youth. . .” The fact that the mermaid doesn’t speak allows for Mr. Peabody to explore his thoughts on “. . . the meaning of attraction and desire—and the loss of it.”  They also describe how Ann Blyth’s underwater scenes were performed by employees from Florida’s popular theme park, Weeki Wachee.

Each section ends with a mini travel guide. “Flori-Drama,” concludes with information about a biker’s bar where the serial killer in Monster used to hang out.  At the end of the “Florida Noir” section, Doll and Morrow point out the highway where a famous scene from the 1991 remake of Cape Fear was filmed.   And the “Fun in the Sun” section mentions the famous Miami Beach Fontainebleau Hotel, where Jerry Lewis was filmed in The Bell Boy.

While popular movies have their coverage, the book also preserves the memory of some lesser known films.  In the “Flori-Drama” section you can read about Rosewood, from 1992, where “tensions simmer between two communities in 1920’s Florida, one prosperous and black, the other struggling and white.”  In the“Silent Florida,” section we meet the star of the 1911 film, Lost in the Jungle, Kathlyn Williams, who had a studio deal and was an “animal lover who thrived on adventure for much of her life.”  Williams won over one of her co-stars, a troublesome male elephant named Toddles, by “tossing him oranges every morning.”

Doll and Morrow’s focus on Florida pulls out interesting facts another guide might miss, noting, for instance that three of Florida writer Marjory Kinnan Rawlings’ books were filmed—The Yearling (1946) “starring Gregory Peck and Jane Wyman,” Cross Creek (1983), her autobiography, and Gal Young’Un (1979), which “offers a darker slice of rural life with the tale of a callous moonshiner who takes advantage of both the spinster he marries for her money and the young girl he brings to her house as a mistress.”

The book examines “more than eighty films that were shot within the borders of the Sunshine State or that use Florida as a primary setting.”  It is a wonderful look at Florida’s diverse film history, whether you are a fan of Marilyn Monroe in Some Like it Hot, Jack Nicholson in Blood and Wine or Denzel Washington in Out of Time.  It might also be a great starting point for a fascinating Florida road trip.


Susan Jo Parsons is Publisher
of The Florida Book Review


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Florida's First People
by Robin C. Brown
(Pineapple Press, Inc., Hardcover, 262 pp., $29.95)
Reviewed by Mark M. Martin

If you grew up in Miami in the 1970s and 80s, as I did, it is likely you remember numerous fieldtrips to the Museum of Science & Natural History (now the Miami Museum of Science & Planetarium) located in Coconut Grove.  Among the indelible images I carry with me from those visits are a gigantic world globe, a towering, taxidermic bear poised for attack, its fierce claws and teeth exposed, and a scene, encased in glass, showing how the first people in Florida lived, ensconced in their natural environment.  Everything they wore, the spears they carried, even the boat they used to journey through Florida’s wetlands originated from the untamed surroundings.  I remember standing at the edge of that glass for a long time.

Over the next 30+ years living in and exploring my native state, I never stopped wondering about that scene, those people.  How did they survive hurricanes? Florida’s torrential, passionate rains? The unforgiving heat and relentless swarms of mosquitoes?  Thanks to Robin C. Brown’s book, Florida’s First People, which combines contemporary archaeology, the writings of early European explorers, and replication experiments that paint a vivid picture of the state’s original inhabitants, we can begin to understand.  As Brown explains, “The first people arrived in Florida about 12,000 years ago at the end of the last Ice Age, when much of North America was still covered with glaciers…Grasslands were home to now extinct species of horse, bison, camel, and magnificent herds of elephant-like mammoths.”  We know this, because “over the past half century, wondrous advances in archaeological technique have been made in methods of locating and excavating ancient living sites, in the identification and preservation of finds, and in methods of dating.”

What I found most intriguing about Brown’s book is its simplicity despite its overwhelmingly complex subject.  The first section discusses six major dig sites, the priceless artifacts they yielded, and the challenges the archaeologists faced in securing the sites.  Not surprisingly, many of the sites were discovered on private lands where owners, in the process of building, were more concerned about turning a profit than unearthing the remains of a people who lived in Florida 5,000 years before the birth of Christ.  This book – scientifically structured and detailed, fantastically illustrated with hundreds of drawings and photographs – is as much a tribute to Florida’s history as it is an homage to archaeologists everywhere who, despite the odds, continue to shed light on the lifestyles of our world’s ancient ancestors.

The second section, “How They Lived,” is devoted to the description and explanation of what the remnants reveal regarding the early inhabitants’ shelter and worldly goods, the food they ate, and their burial practices, customs, and religions.  As you read about each artifact, it doesn’t take long to comprehend that these were truly a gifted and complex people.  Staunch enough to hunt large mammals such as horse, bison, and mammoth, they were also crafty enough to kill small game and fish, and knowledgeable enough to gather wild plant foods such as roots, berries, and nuts.  As Brown surmises, “In the varied environment of late Pleistocene Florida, [their] fishing, hunting, and gathering way of life may have been surprisingly successful, providing both ample food and considerable spare time.”

Throughout the second and final section of the book, Brown explains how – with the help of his family and friends – he attempted to duplicate aboriginal skills, crafts and cookery.  An advocate of replicating, as opposed to theorizing about, his subjects’ methods, Brown’s duplication activities took five years to complete and are explained in great detail for any readers who wish to explore for themselves the life-sustaining processes of Florida’s first people.  According to Brown, “We really learn about prehistory only when the site of an ancient culture is systematically studied, digging not just to find, but to learn.”

The final section of the book provides all you need to know about participating in Florida archaeology, as well as a glossary and a complete list of the scientific names of plants and animals mentioned in the book.  I recommend Brown’s book to anyone interested in Florida history, and especially to anyone interested in archaeology and learning more about what it was like to live in a world without cars and appliances, without air-conditioners and king-sized, comfortable beds.

For more information about ongoing Florida archaeology, visit the Florida Anthropological Society at http://www.fasweb.org/index.html, or write to:

Membership Secretary

Florida Anthropological Society

P.O. Box 13191

Pensacola, FL 32591


Mark M. Martin is a poet and business writer who is not currently digging up the yard in his rented duplex to find the bones of an elephant-like mammoth.


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Fifteen Florida Cemeteries: Strange Tales Unearthed by Lola Haskins
(University of Florida Press, Paperback, 258 pp., $22.50)

Reviewed by Molly McGreevy


           While dramatic deaths sometimes inspire ghost stories, Lola Haskins digs up her tales from visiting the graveyards themselves. Haskins, an award-winning poet who lives in Gainesville, toured burial grounds across our state and in Fifteen Florida Cemetaries: Strange Tales Unearthed gives us a well-researched history of the host city, its cemetery, and—as an added bonus in most chapters—the history of a buried citizen inside its gates.

          Just like our state, Florida’s burial grounds are aesthetically and culturally diverse. The “varying heights of the grave markers “ in Old City Cemetery in Tallahassee give Haskins the sense she is entering a different kind of cityscape—albeit a segregated one, with many children’s graves.  In Appalachicola’s disarrayed cemetery, many deaths are water-related. Micanopy's local citizens won't truly accept you in the community until you purchase your own plot in their cemetary's beautifully shaded grounds. In Key West, Haskins finds among the vandalized statuary many quirky epitaphs that epitomize the city’s “wild” sense of humor. One was seemingly penned by a wife finally relieved to see her active husband at rest: “At least I know where he’s sleeping tonight.”

           These graveyards record Florida’s past. St. Augustine’s old yard contains many victims of its 1821 yellow fever epidemic, and Port Mayaca Memorial Gardens on Lake Okeechobee was established for the thousands of victims swept away by the Great Hurricane of 1928 (the subject of Hurston’s famous novel, Their Eyes Were Watching God). In the Upsala Cemetery in Sanford, Haskins admires the “intimate and natural” grounds, whose markers reveal the waves of Swedish migrants who were enticed to the New World to find work in the orange groves.

          But there appears to be no burial ground in Florida as intimate and natural as Glendale Nature Preserve and Cemetery—my personal preference—a “green” alternative located on privately-owned land in the Panhandle, run by what appear to be truly progressive hippies.  John Wilkerson, one of the owners, has managed to make the ultimate recycling bin. While you’re alive, he can construct for you a pine-wood cabinet to hold your books or knickknacks, and then, after you die, your loved ones can take the shelves out, put you in, secure the lid, and bury you among native-born plant species with a modest grave marker. You only need a few prerequisites to be buried at Glendale: a non-embalmed corpse, a bio-degradable container, a Florida death certificate, and no objections to the large junk sculptures on site, such as the recycled air-duct piece affectionately referred to as “Miss Nessie.”

          Deceased citizens in the “spotlighted” section at the end of each chapter include a color-blind botanist, a friend of Andrew Jackson, a female Confederate spy, a philandering doctor who made and sold contraceptive tablets, a nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte, a prizewinning racehorse and a famous family of circus acrobatics.

          Haskins mildly titles the story that accompanies the Key West cemetery “All For Love,” but the dimensions of this last story are as compelling and repulsive as anything devised by a nineteenth century Gothic novelist. In 1927 a man called Count Carl von Cosel showed up in Key West to work as a radiologist in a naval hospital. Unbeknownst to the community, he was actually not a Count but a retired German naval doctor apparently suffering from full-blown psychosis. Imagining a beautiful, dying TB patient to be his fateful lover, the Count managed after her death to become even more obsessed with the woman’s person. He stole her remains and for the next seven years he worked alone experimenting different ways to preserve her decaying body. He smeared embalming lotions and waxes on her, reconstructed a “mask” of her face, and last, but not least, graced her bones with different bridal gowns, complete with a gold tiara. By the time the sheriff showed up at his house, he was sleeping in bed next to her.  Haskins does not come right out and say “necrophilia,” but you can fill in the rest. Among the many strange facts surrounded the story was the public’s reaction. People across the country—mostly women—actually wrote letters in his defense.

          Haskins keen interest in history leads her to a variety of resources. “Because there are no known maps drawn between 1840 and the 1870s, the exact evolution of the cemetery’s [St. Michael’s] boundaries…isn’t clear,” she writes, but using a Union General’s journal which details an order to knock down the gravestones, she surmises that “after that incident, St. Michael’s didn’t change substantially,” and “an 1884 map of Pensacola shows it in exactly the form it bears today.” In Micanopy, she digs up the Cemetery Association records: “They include, for instance, a 1906 sexton’s contract in which one E.R. Sandler agrees for the sum of 108 dollars per year to rid the cemetery of debris during the first week of each month.” She continues to detail the long list of duties he should perform in exchange for grave-digging jobs.

Although I believe this book could have used a little bit more editing to slim down some of Haskin’s detailed research, and although I sometimes wished to experience these cemeteries more from a poet’s angle rather than a historian’s, I found this book fascinating reading. Cemetery enthusiasts and Florida history buffs will find this book a good companion to their adventures.


Molly McGreevy lives and writes in Miami.

See more Florida history reviews in our Florida History Archive:

Miami Beach Memories by Joann Biondi, reviewed by Marjorie Klein

The Swamp by Michael Grunwald, reviewed by Brian Sulliva
n

Weeki Wachee, City of Mermaids, reviewed by Lynne Barrett

America's Real First Thanksgiving, reviewed by Yaddyra Peralta


Click here to visit our Florida History Archive.


Pleasurecover.jpgPleasure Was My Business
by Madam Sherry as told to Robert Tralins
(Paperback Library Inc,1963 Hardcover 1961)

Reviewed by Lynne Barrett

    The proper end of the career of a notorious madam is a memoir.  For those who were anticipating the recollections of Deborah Jeane Palfrey, the Washington Madam, her death May 1 by hanging in a shed outside her mother’s mobile home in Tarpon Springs so violates this natural order of things that many believe her to have been murdered.  Meanwhile, volumes about the Elliot Spitzer affair are expected.
    While waiting for those, let’s contemplate the memoir of a Florida madam, Ruth Barnes a.k.a. Madam Sherry, as told to Robert Tralins in Pleasure Was My Business, published in 1961. The book was banned in Miami in a censorship case that went to the Supreme Court.  There, and in a libel case brought by Egypt’s King Farouk, Barnes and Tralins triumphed. 
    At a distance, vice has glamour.  In Pleasure is My Business, Madam Sherry evokes Miami on the rise, a time when crime and style intertwined, from the construction of her “Moorish Castle” just off Biscayne Boulevard in 1929 to the postwar frolics by the pool of her Rancho Lido near the airport.
    The story of Madam Sherry’s rise and fall is, fundamentally, a business book.  The title, with its echo of Chandler’s Trouble Is My Business, promises that insider’s view: she’s a pro, taking us inside the sex trade.
    From its inception, Madam Sherry’s plan is based on a frank assessment of the business climate.  Having spent time on the continent with her not-at-all-explained “Papa,” she is in Havana, supposedly thinking of dealing in fine art in Florida, but in truth engaged in the smuggling of whiskey, when she runs into an old friend, Zadel, who sets her course, advising “a whorehouse is the only business in Florida.”  She puts together capital accumulated through smuggling liquor into Key West via a customs inspector who she kisses (ahem) into compliance.  And by 1929, she has commissioned the construction of her Moorish Castle in Miami, off Biscayne at NE 54th St., an area not yet too developed and respectable, accessible to Miami Beach (“wonderful isle of erotic dreams”), and to the Hialeah racetrack, the gambling joints and nightclubs where Madam Sherry would parade her beauties.
    Like the Castle, the parts of the book we enter first are made to look as elegant as possible. What peeks out is less sexual provocation than the ruthless understanding of a businesswoman.  She speaks of “getting the right kind of merchandise and displaying it attractively.”  The assembling of her stock-in-trade occupies quite a few early chapters of the book.  While boasting that she wants college girls and professional entertainers, girls with style, manners, class (yes, this is a standard line in the sex business to this day), the characters we meet seem more often to be beauties drawn to the business from Depression-impoverished states, or, memorably, a tall blonde who is working at the ribbon counter of a 5 & 10 downtown when Madam Sherry goes to see her and recruits her on the spot.  The hiring of the girls, their characters, abilities, and foibles, are handled with fairly restrained language and a continuous emphasis on Madam Sherry’s benevolence.  She explains the set-up:  when a girl fetches $100 “a throw,” the girl gets $60, Madam Sherry $40.  And she pays for their elegant costumes.  This deal is apparently good enough to pull girls in from all over the country, and she is able to select those who are, to hear her, drop-dead gorgeous (there are no pictures in the book), who, dressed as ladies, appear at the race track, gambling joints and nightclubs, drive around in the house Caddy, and have the customers flocking in.
     In this halcyon period, the customers are for the most part rich and appreciative.  There is the prominent man who is happy to pay for his son to be with a reliable prostitute rather than let him fall for society adventuresses, the millionaire who stays for days and whose trust is shown in a large check.  Honor and big tips fill Madam Sherry’s memory of the good old days. 
     Like any small business owner today, Madam Sherry’s biggest lament is government interference, though the taxation that bites her is the pay-off.  As her business booms in the 30s, an ever-larger number of cops and officials get in line for bribes in cash and kind.  After she seeks the advice of Al Capone, she learns the principle to manage this: pay off the top guy and make him keep those below in line, and from then on, at least for a while, she has an agreement whereby she is warned of raids, pays her fines, and is back in business with barely a pause.  She pays off journalists, as well—one night a week they can show up for freebies on the house—-and receives excellent publicity, mentions in social columns and photos in the rotogravure.
     As the book goes on, we see more of the sexual side of the bordello. The focus is on the peccadilloes of the clientele: the angry wife who is not a wife at all, the insatiable society woman, the kinky customer who turns out to be a priest.  She brings in famous names.  Dutch Schultz is difficult, but Madam Sherry can handle him.  Dr. Kinsey shows up to interview her for her know-how about sex.  A Spanish royal, Prince Alfonso, Count of Covadonga, heir to King Alfonso XVII, likes fat girls.  The sturdy prostitute Sherry finds falls for him and several years later reports that Mildred, the cigarette girl he is now hanging out with, is the agent of a foreign power that wants him dead.  Madam Sherry tries to warn him by alerting his personal bodyguard, Jack Fleming, but Fleming is unable to get the Prince to listen to reason.  Soon after, Mildred crashes a car they were in on Biscayne, and the prince “wasn’t scratched” but “died of shock and a fractured skull.”  Mildred disappears.  This incident is characteristic, with Madam Sherry wise and seeking to help and the implied corollary that the Prince would have been safer with a pro than a freelancer.  
      But the business climate changes.  Prohibition ends.  In addition to the ever-bigger burden of payoffs, there are those who try to con Madam Sherry, troublesome pimps, disruptive customers.  With World War II and the impending arrival of servicemen, the War Dept. orders the Castle to be closed down.  An era is over.
     The rise and fall of the Castle takes up the first 130 pages of this 160 page book.  The later chapters zip through some events which it seems Madam Sherry would rather not dwell on.  Military rules ruin the sex industry, and Madam Sherry co-manages a massage parlor, then opens a new house, the La Rue.  Hypocrisy forces new forms upon vice.  A furniture buyer for a large South Florida retail furniture chain, unable to get scarce merchandise, needs girls to allure furniture reps into giving him their allocations; for this, call girls are needed, and billing which can sanitize the expense, and so, Madam Sherry boasts, she becomes “one of the first madams to specialize in the altogether new field of supplying whores for business.”
    In the postwar period, as tourists begin to come to Miami by plane, Madam Sherry opens up her Rancho Lido outside the city limits, near the airport, ready to thrive again.  But, although business is good, and movie stars and a king come to the Rancho, the world has changed.  There are shakedown men in the sheriff’s office and, as we go into the 1950s, the moralists are putting pressure on the rackets.  Moreover, a code of honor that used to exist is gone.  Sherry is most bitter about one Mary McNary who (she says) betrayed her, giving false testimony against her.  After a trial, while on appeal, supposedly with permission from her attorney and assistance from the sheriff’s office, Sherry is in Mexico chasing McNary down when she is arrested.  She winds up spending six months at the Women’s Federal reformatory in Alderson, West Virginia (where Martha Stewart served her time), having gotten half a year off for good behavior. 
    There is a certain haziness in some spots and  too-good-to-be-true-ness in others.  Like much memoir by the famous or infamous, Pleasure Was My Business is self-serving.  The character Zadel strikes me as the kind of figure we see now in memoirs as “composite” characters: he pops up to say things that are needed to add salt.  Various anecdotes seem well-polished, and why wouldn’t they be?  One imagines Sherry entertaining people with them down the years. The late incidents leading to the arrest and imprisonment are hastened through, and there’s a sense of Madam Sherry’s illusions about herself crashing against reality.  Early on she describes herself as an “attractive redhead” but the middle-aged procuress who was arrested weighed two hundred pounds and was compared to Kate Smith. There is no author picture. The babe on the cover of the paperback is carefully noted to be “posed by a professional model.”   A photo of the Moorish Castle (taken in the 50s after it had been out of Sherry’s hands for over a decade; it was torn down not long after) shows it to be smaller than the splendor evoked—though its Arabian Nights turret certainly made it a landmark.  At a distance, memory romanticizes.
   This book is out of print, but copies are available through on-line dealers.  In the
May Biscayne Times you can read a detailed assessment of the Moorish Castle (with floor plans) and the Rancho Lido by architect and writer Antolin Garcia Carbonell (whose piece on Florida Poet Laureate Vivian Laramore Rader is an FBR feature.)  Carbonell has gone through public records and learned, among other things, that Madam Sherry lopped a husband out of her narrative: a Joseph Barnes appears with Ruth Barnes on documents relating to the purchase and (by this time they were divorced) sale of the Castle.  Carbonell reports that Robert Tralins (who has further information on his website) is working on a follow-up account of the publication, banning, and eventual exoneration of the book.
    One wonders what most offended.  The language is for the most part nothing today’s public would blink at, and while late chapters run through the menu of sexual perversities, they are not depicted in any detail.  But there’s a frontal assault on the society’s hypocrisy.  “If it weren’t for the reformers, no madam would be in business,” Madam S. says on page one, and she consistently confronts received opinion.  In a late chapter, she excoriates the results of moral forces.  “Perhaps I’m biased a bit on this score, but it seems to me that attempts to stamp out ‘sin’ actually breed more sin.”  She points out that with the closing of gambling houses and brothels, the activities simply moved to hotels, where “bellboys, to this day, can fix up hotel guests and visitors with a bookie or a broad.”  Girls are driven onto the streets, where they make less and give more to pimps.  “The net result is that instead of protecting the tourists and fun-seeking errant males, this ‘reform’ set-up actually subjects them to disease and robbery and even worse crimes.  This is because they are not under control of a system that could very well keep things in check if society would ever wake up...”  One wonders if the local forces of moral authority who banned the book were bothered as much by her frankness as her salaciousness.  Today, while gambling has been legalized in various forms, the debate on legalized prostitution hasn’t budged.  You can imagine Madam Sherry looking at the exposure of a puritanical governor and a family values touting senator or two, and laughing at the same old story.

Lynne Barrett is Editor of The Florida Book Review
MoorishCastleJune301952sm.jpgThis photo of the Moorish Castle appeared in The Miami New in June 1952.  Photo courtesy of the Historical Museum of South Florida.

Hemingway's Life in Key West: Remembered

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Papa: Hemingway in Key West
by James McLendon
(Ketch and Yawl Press,
Paperback, 222 pp., $15.95)

Reviewed by P. Scott Cunningham


           
Written in 1972 and recently reprinted by Marathon-based Ketch & Yawl Press, James McLendon’s biography takes a magnifying glass to Hemingway’s eventful twelve years on the Southernmost point.  Using mostly local sources, in particular Ernest and Pauline’s good friends Charles and Lorine Thompson, McLendon traces the life of a minor author of two slim novels as he transforms into a literary juggernaut and living legend.  The book also chronicles his marriage to second wife Pauline, a relationship that runs nearly parallel to the Key West Years.  One of the more revealing details of the book is that the Thompsons actually stood in for the Hemingways at their Miami divorce proceedings on Labor Day, 1940, and just seventeen days later, Ernest married Martha Gelhorn in Havana, putting the final match beneath every bridge back to Key West.

Unlike many modern biographies, McLendon’s book makes no attempt to penetrate the psyche of its hero.  By focusing almost exclusively on events within and around Key West, it sometimes reads more like an FBI report than a narrative.  No detail is too small to recount.  We get the weight of a Kingfish caught by Hemingway’s editor Max Perkins (58 lbs); the cost of the 1933 African safari ($25,000); the model of gun given to his gardener Jimmy (German Luger); and an entire chapter devoted to Papa’s yacht, Pilar.  When the details are working however, they function with the breezy delight of an E! True Hollywood episode, and anyone interested enough in Hemingway to pick up the book will enjoy knowing he paid the “celebrity-rate” of one dollar a day to stay in Sun Valley, Idaho’s finest lodge in the summer of 1940.

The pace of McLendon’s prose is especially quick whenever Ernest is entertaining “The Mob,” his boys’ club of artists (like fellow novelist John Dos Passos), tough guys (like famous saloon owner “Sloppy” Joe Russell), and sportsmen (like Captain Eddie “Bra” Saunders).  According to McLendon, developing and leading this group was nearly on a par with writing in terms of its importance to Papa, and wherever Hemingway goes—Africa, Havana, Wyoming—McLendon recounts carefully the Mob’s rotating membership.  He takes obvious pleasure in recounting Mob yarns, practical jokes, and booze sessions, and at times, the descriptions of Papa meeting new man-friends borders on the style of a dime-store romance novel.  Upon meeting Charles Thompson, “[Hemingway] walked into the hardware store, suntanned, in a baggy, fish-stained pullover shirt, a cloth fishing cap, canvas walking shorts, and a pair of dingy tennis shoes, looking almost seedy and a little suspect. But eagerness and kindness showed in his face, and Charles responded to him almost on reflex. Charles was standing behind one of the store’s half-glass display cases in khakis.”  In contrast, Hemingway’s father Dr. Clarence Hemingway commits suicide and disappears inside of one short paragraph, and all McLendon can say of the event is that it “caught Ernest short of money.”

Readers enchanted with the Papa legend will want to know what it felt like to drink and fish with him; what hours he kept during a writing project; and also what it was like to live in what was essentially a lawless island run by gamblers and madams. To that end, Papa: Hemingway in Key West delivers.

            P. Scott Cunningham is a
Florida Book Review Contributing Editor and a regular contributor to the New Times. His poetry has appeared or is forthcoming in Pool, Court Green, Cider Press Review and Mc Sweeney’s Internet Tendencies.


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Cracker: The Cracker Culture in Florida History by Dana Ste. Claire
(University Press of Florida, Paperback, 255 pp., $19.95)
Reviewed by Susan Jo Parsons

           In Cracker: The Cracker Culture in Florida History Dana Ste. Claire writes that the Cracker population of Florida has been misunderstood over the centuries.  While pioneers of the West have been glamorized, this group of Florida pioneers has been stereotyped as racist, violent, backwoods idiots.  Even the study of Crackers itself is fairly rare, since the subject has been snubbed by academics over the years.  But they are misunderstood, Ste. Claire writes, because while many of the Crackers were of Celtic origin, there were also African-American Crackers, Spanish Crackers, Native-American Crackers, Russian Crackers and even Lebanese-Syrian Crackers.  The word Cracker describes a way of life rather than a specific racial makeup.  The book emphasizes that the population should be appreciated for the resourceful pioneers that they were, and that all the adventures that occurred in the West, including gunfights and showdowns, also occurred on Florida soil.

There is much debate about the origin of the name Cracker itself.  Some theorize that it came from the sound of the long whips the Cracker cowhunters used.  Others thought it might have come from the crude, hard biscuits they made, since they rarely could afford flour to make them rise.  But Ste. Claire’s research found evidence that the word Cracker was used in England as early as 1509 to describe “a braggart or a liar.” Shakespeare even uses the word in King John: “What cracker is this that deafes our eares with this abundance of superfluous breath?”

            While Ste. Claire isn’t sure when the Crackers arrived, he found that they were already in place by mid 18th century.  Like the pioneers that headed west, the Crackers often arrived in covered wagons. The early Crackers were squatters who moved around from place to place, which made the local government uneasy.  They were fiercely independent and settled their disputes and dealt with their criminals amongst themselves.

            Eventually they settled in crude houses which Ste. Claire describes in the chapter “Shotguns and Saddlebags.”  The houses were huts, he explains, with roofs thatched with palmetto.  There were no window screens, so anyone living in Florida can imagine the kinds of critters that made their way indoors.

            But the Crackers’ resourcefulness in living off the Florida land is most evident in the chapter about “Cracker Cuisine.”  Home-ground corn meal was the most common food, but the Crackers thrived on a variety of local foodstuffs.  What we might consider roadkill—raccoons, squirrel and possum--served as fine dinners for the Crackers. In the swamp waters, they hunted alligator and caught catfish and frogs. Ste. Claire includes recipes for some of the delicacies, such as armadillo, which was also called “swamp pork.”  Ste. Claire writes that it was “prepared by marinating the shelled animal in vinegar or garlic water and deep frying it.”  “Somewhere in the history of Cracker cooking,” he continues, “rattlesnakes became an entrée, probably when they wandered too close to the homestead.”  Bacon grease was used as gravy and Ste. Claire includes a remark from Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings about her astonishment that the Crackers’ bodies could tolerate so much bacon fat “gravy” every day.

            For fiber, the resourceful Crackers consumed native plants such as palmetto berries, prickly pear, and coontie, a native fern which is “deadly poisonous unless prepared properly.”  They ate cattail, hickory nuts and acorns, and all sorts of berries.

            Fowl was a rare treat, and usually shared at the rare gatherings and celebrations the Crackers held.  “Chicken Perleu” was a popular boiled chicken and rice dish at these gatherings.  Crackers would travel from far away for these celebrations.  A dance would last as long as three days.  Moonshine (known as “low-bush lightning”) and homemade wine and beer made the events merry.

            But mostly it was hard times for the Crackers.  Ste. Claire writes that “Cracker women would rise well before dawn, sometimes as early as 3 a.m., to cook bread, biscuits and meats for the rest of the day, as hearths and woodstoves in a closed kitchen were insufferable.”  Ste. Claire includes a few pages about laundry day, which was a long, dreaded, drawn-out process for the Crackers who often couldn’t afford conveniences such as ringers.  The women made their crude dresses and aprons from grain bags which they carefully bleached then stitched into garments.

            The men spent most of their days hunting for food for their families.  Those who had jobs were cattlemen who were referred to as “cowhunters.”  They were often away from home for months at a time and they experienced numerous dangers in the Florida wilderness.  One cowhunter recalls evading a stampede of cows.  Others feared being killed for the cows they protected from thieves: “. . . out in the wilderness low-browed cow-folks shoot and stab each other for creatures not fit for a pointer-dog to mess on.”

            Cracker: The Cracker Culture in Florida History is so rich with detail, I can’t possibly share all of it in the limited space of a review.  Dana Ste. Claire, according to the book, “is Curator of History and a professional archeologist with the Museum of Arts and Sciences in Daytona Beach.”  There are countless historical photos and sketches in the book and Ste. Claire includes extensive colorful interviews with Crackers and descendants of Crackers, and pulls in information from Rawlings and numerous settlers and travelers who investigated Cracker life before him.  The book itself struck me as a wonderful museum—one well worth a visit.

Susan Jo Parsons is Publisher of The Florida Book Review


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